Uruguay Elects a New President

There was quite a party Sunday night as thousands of Frente Amplio supporters took to the streets in Montevideo to celebrate the win of their presidential candidate, Pepe Mujica.


The results of the runoff followed pretty much just as the pre-election polls predicted. Mujica, the ex-guerilla fighter won 53 percent of the votes, beating out his opponent, Luis Lacalle.


Only minutes after Mujica was officially announced the winner of the election, a torrential downpour soaked the crowds gathered along the rambla. That didn't seem to bother anyone. In fact, soaking wet FA enthusiasts took to 18 de Julio (Montevideo's main street) celebrating the win of their party in a long victory march. Flags, fireworks, and Frente cheers abounding.


Mujica ended his short speech on election night with a phrase from Uruguay's national hero, Artigas, "ni vencedores ni vencidos"(There are neither victors nor those who have been defeated) in order to leave party differences aside and unite Uruguayans together under the new democratically elected leader.

Nike 10k

Bright yellow. No. Blinding fluorescent yellow. That was color of our jerseys for the Nike 10k in Montevideo. I don't suppose they could have picked a brighter color.


On Saturday Christie, Fede, and I ran in the Nike 10k, which is the equivalent of 6.2 miles. The race started at the Palacio Legislativo and ended along the rambla. I beat my goal (of 60 minutes) by a little more than 3 minutes so i was really happy. I'm pretty sure that if i had been in this race a year ago I could have barely crossed the finish line, but Uruguay has encouraged me to live a healthier lifestyle. I have to exercise everyday or I feel rather anxious. The rambla in Montevideo is perfect for running and the path along the Uruguay River in Salto was great for running too; and I visit my gym, Los Bohemios, 4-5 days a week. I have Uruguay to thank for encouraging healthy living. Everyone seems to be fit around here.

In the Nike race there were almost 8000 runners. Woah! That's a lot of yellow. Almost like a yellow streak. I came in 3424th. Haha. That sounds horrible I know. A little better, I came in 102 out of 367 in my gender and age category. For the second race of my life and first 10k one ever, I'm quite pleased.

Sifting through the Trash

It's not unusual to hear the clip clop of horse hooves below from our living room window. Some of the poorest people of Montevideo (who likely live in the suburbs) go around from garbage bin to garbage bin searching for trash to collect.


Sometimes it's men collecting garbage. Sometimes it's women. Sometimes it's teenagers. And sometimes it's children. I think it's heartbreaking to see a 5 year old child riding in a wagon, waiting for his big brother to finish diving in the big green dumpster nearby. What kind of future will these children have?

The quantity of horse drawn garbage collectors is surprisingly high for a modern day capital city. Haggard horses pulling rotting wooden carts trot by while cars zoom past them on 4 lane highways. They seem strangely out of place, yet many low income families have resorted to scavenging for trash as a primary source of income.


On the brighter side of things (if there is a brighter side), these trash-sifters take care of most of the city's recycling. For example, we don't have a means to recycle near our house, so we put all of our empty plastic containers in a seperate bag for garbage sorters to come through and collect them with greater ease. We feel this is the most likely way that our shampoo bottles and coca cola liters will get resold and reused. They provide an important public service in this regard.

The situation for the trash sifters isn't always completely bad (not to diminish the real hardships that come hand in hand with poverty). One of the most absurd things I've seen thus far is a man driving his horse and cart piled full of refuse while talking on his cell phone. His cell phone! The irony is striking.

El Milongón

When my aunt was in Montevideo visiting me, we went to a dinner show--El Milongón. Although it was as touristy as touristy can get, it was a nice overview of the musical styles of Uruguay.


There was folk dancing, candombe, tango, fire spinning, and gaucho stomping. For a show in Uruguay it was ridiculously pricey (about 21 US dollars), but for a comparable 1.5 hour show of live music and dancing in the US you couldn't even come close to the price.

Enjoy a short video from the evening:

Election Day

Today is election day in Uruguay!

After months and months of campaigning, we shall finally see which party wins the election. Lately, there have been rallies all over Montevideo for each of the different political parties, and volunteers handing out brochures like crazy. I don't think I'll miss receiving 20 pamphlets after a short two-block walk down 18 de Julio.


It appears that there will be no clear winner in the election today. The race is largely between the two frontrunners, Pepe Mujica, former Tupamaros guerrilla fighter and part of the current ruling party, the Frente Amplio, and Luis Lacalle, former president and representative from the Partido Blanco. Elections in Uruguay are compulsory so everyone has to vote or face undesirable consequences.

In addition to selecting a president and a new legislature (through the system of a bunch of really long lists labeled with a number) Uruguayans will also vote on two "plebiscitos," namely whether to repeal the 1986 amnesty law and whether to allow Uruguayans living abroad to vote.


There have been many signs, graffiti, pins, shirts, posters, and whatnot encouraging people to vote "si" to annul the "Ley de Caducidad" which granted amnesty to those accused of human rights abuses during the dictatorship.

I am so excited to see the result of the election. The future of Uruguay will be decided today.

Way Up in the Sky

The Torre de las Telecomunicaciones is the tallest building in Montevideo, and in all of Uruguay for that matter. It towers over the rest of city and can be seen from quite a distance. The tower belongs to ANTEL, the state-run national telecommunications company.

From the tower you can see a beautiful overview of the city, port, and river. Every so often they give free tours to the public and let you ride up the elevator to the 20th floor where you can look out the massive windows from to see Montevideo on all sides down below.


The windows often reflect light and, at some points, make it seem like you are walking into an optical illusion. It is well worth the visit if you come visit Uruguay.


In the adjacent building there is the Museo de las Telecomunicaciones y el Auditorio which more or less takes you on a tour of telephones throughout the ages. I wouldn't recommend the museum unless you are telecommunications junkie, but the tower is worthwhile.

Sunday on the Golf Course

On Sunday, the Club de Golf de Uruguay opens its doors to the public--only not for golf.

The golf course is in the Punta Carretas neighborhood and you can see the Ciudad Vieja part of the Montevideo skyline from some of the greens and the beach as well. The course was impeccable, yet anyone (golfer or not) can visit on Sundays just to lounge around.

I could hardly believe it. At first I felt like I was desecrating holy ground by walking on a golf course with no golf clubs, no golf shoes, and no golf attire. But you don't need those things on Sundays! We came with only a bag full of bizcochos (bakery sweets) and yerba mate.


On Sundays families come to have picnics by the sand traps. Friends come to loaf around the greens. Students come to study in the grass. Nature enthusiasts come to spot newly hatched baby birds and watch bright green parrots fly from tree to tree.

I like the idea that an exclusive golf club lets people use their facilities like a park. It's a public good that just doesn't exist in the culture I come from.

Uruguayan Sunsets

I've never seen sunsets anywhere in the world more beautiful than the sunsets I've seen in Uruguay, first in Salto then in Montevideo.



Here are two photos right from our living room window as the sun began to sink. Both were taken on different days. Sheer magnificence!

A Bus Ride to Remember

Yesterday I rode the bus with spiderman. No really. I got on the bus. Sat down. Two stops later, none other than spiderman himself got on the bus, paid his fare, and stood there as if nothing was out of the ordinary. I pretended to text on my phone, but snapped a photo instead, because I knew no one would believe that I rode the bus with a super hero.


I think the strangest thing was that other people on the bus didn't seem to be fazed at all by the fact that Hombre Araña was riding the bus with us. I've come to expect peddlars, musicians, and beggars to board the bus, but not super heroes.

I've been on the bus with men playing tango music, children selling alfajores con dulce de leche, a man selling spot cleaner, women selling chocolate, a spanish rapper, numerous vendors, and now with spiderman too. Somehow riding the bus is always an experience.

And P.S. if you ever need to figure out how to get somewhere in Montevideo, montevideobus.com will save your life, because the system is impossible to navigate with out this website. There are no schedules. And there are no routes printed at the bus stops. If you want to go somewhere in the city you either walk, take a taxi, ask somebody which bus to take, or find internet connection and check out this website. You click on your origin and it will tell you which buses you can take to get to your destination. Another piece of advice, which I had to learn the hard way, you have to hail the bus, even if you are at a marked bus stop it won't stop unless you stick out your hand and start waving. You also need to push a button to get off the bus at your stop, or once again, the driver will just keep on going. There are many unspoken rules of bus-riding here, and the only way to learn is to get on and go.

Heritage Day

Dia del Patrimonio or "heritage day" celebrations in Uruguay were a lot of fun. We got to see various museums, parades, displays, music, dances, performances, and other assorted festivities.


The photos you see are of candombe groups who usually perform during carnaval. Candombe is a style of music and dance that originated in Uruguay. I will dedicate a future post to explaining it more.


It seemed like everyone came out to enjoy the traditions of Uruguay. There were people everywhere in Ciudad Vieja and Centro. Uruguayans seem to be proud to be Uruguayan.


And what celebration would be complete without a giant jar of dulce de leche? This is biggest jar of dulce that you've ever seen. I have to admit...I gave it a hug.

7k Race in Montevideo

I ran in a race today. Yes, that's right. A carrera. A race! The 7k BBVA. Christine talked me into doing it. I have no idea how she managed to convince me (she must be very persuasive).


The race looped around the rambla along the Pocitos beach. It was only 7k (or 4.35 miles) which wasn't very much at all. My usual run along the rambla is 6k, so I figured might as well tag on another kilometer, join a herd of other runners, and get a cool shirt in the process.


The amount of runners who showed up was insane. There were probably close to 3000, or so we figured since our race numbers were in the 2600's. I can't believe how fast the race went. It seemed like it was over in a flash even though I had second doubts about signing up for it in the first place.


They gave us a chip to tie to our shoes to track our times. They also gave us free water mid race that I about choked on (there's probably some skill to running and drinking from a plastic cup simultaneously, but it's still a mystery to me). And after the race we got a medal. Woot woot. This one's for the trophy case!

Suburb Slums

I visited a liceo (high school) in the suburbs of Montevideo today. The suburbs in Uruguay do not mean the same thing as they do in the United States.


The suburbs are not full of middle class families with 2.5 kids, neatly mowed lawns, and a minivan in the driveway. The suburbs in Uruguay are where the poorest of the poor live. I didn't have my camera with me, but I did capture a few quick shots with my phone. I wish I could show you more.


The poverty is shocking--appalling even. I could never imagine living in such conditions. When people say that Uruguay is a third world country I generally think tisk, tisk, you don't know what you are talking about, Montevideo is relatively wealthy. Most people make enough money to live comfortably. But not in the suburbs. Not in the slums of the city.


When I see such utter poverty, I can't conscientiously go on living the way I am. I cannot not do anything. It's reprehensible that there are children living in such conditions. What can I do? What can you do? What can we do?

Because something needs to be done!

Expo Prado

I went to Expo Prado with a teacher from one of my conversation classes and her friend. It was a great time.


Expo Prado is basically a large farm show or agriculatural exhibition in the Prado neighborhood of Montevideo. This year is the 104th Expo hosted by the Rural Association of Uruguay "where all sectors of the national economy are represented." And 530,000 visitors are expected to attend.


Besides all of the livestock displays (cows, pigs, goats, sheep, bunnies, hens, horses, etc.), there were also many businesses represented, from industrial tractor companies to cellphone service providers. A lot of corporations hired pretty girls in matching outfits to hand out advertising pamphlets to passerbys.


There were also public awarness booths (like for the transportation ministry or national army among many others) and artisinal stalls where I picked up a few presents and another silver ring for myself (I might have a slight ring-buying addiction. Somebody stop me!).


There were also lots of tasty food options. You could buy a hamburger from a little cart on the street or sit down for a full asado dinner. I personaly had a taco from the Mexican embassy's tent. Finally--some spiciness! The first time I've had anything with actual hot sauce since arriving in Uruguay.


I think my favorite part about Expo Prado was people watching. There were people from all classes and walks of life at the expo (and they were all drinking mate). There were gauchos from the interior, children in school uniforms, rich women in leather coats, farmhands in knee-high rubber boots, teenagers in skinny jeans, and grandpas in sweater vests. Everybody came out to take part in Uruguay's commercial and industrial success.

Religion in Uruguay

Religion in Uruguay is not widespread. Uruguay is often considered one of the most secular countries in the Americas. Most people I have come to know fit this generalization fairly well. Religion is not a big part of people's lives here, but on the bright side, there is a lot of religious freedom.

A few quick stats:
47.1% of Uruguayans define themselves as Roman Catholic
23.2% as believing in God but without religion
17.2% as Atheist or Agnostic
11.1% as Protestant Christian
The population is largely non-religious, or religious, but not practicing, or what I would call "casually religious."


That said, religion does exist here. This Sunday a friend invited me to church so I went. It was the first time I've been to a church in many many months. It felt good. It felt like home. Something that has been missing from my life for a long time. The people's love for God and for others was very evident.

I think I will go back next week.

Theater in Montevideo

Montevideo has a strong theater community. This past month I have gone to two performances. One at the beautiful Teatro Solis (pictured below) and one at the Anglo Centro Cultural. One a commentary on torture, and the other a light-hearted comedy.


At Teatro Solis we saw Resilencia, a one man performance expressing the what it was like to be tortured as a political prisoner during the military dictatorship from 1973-85. The linked article states that the director understands "el cuerpo es la única pertenencia que le queda a un individuo para mantener su dignidad" (the body is the only possession that an individual has left to keep his/her dignity). The show was dark, somber, and visually thought-provoking. The use of light, really only a light bulb on a rope, was surprisingly brillant.

The other show we went to see at the Anglo was Cada Vez Me Gusta Mas. It was a fun play with several up-beat songs interspersed between antecdotes about the lives of the two main characters. It was full of references to Uruguayan culture and life in Montevideo. At one point during the show the actor stopped the show and yelled at Christie and me for talking. I am not kidding. Somebody, cough, not me, wanted to sit in the front row, but when the actor caught us whispering he looked at us, asked for the lights to be turned on, asked us if we go to a "special school" and then told us to shut up. How mortifying. My face has never been more red in my life. I wanted to melt into the floor. (Just for the record it WAS a comedy and other members of the audience were picked on too. Maybe we were just a part of the act? I hope.)

Artigas' Mausoleum

If you are ever in Montevideo you need to visit the mausoleum of Artigas, Uruguay's national hero. But you may need to visit fast.


In the center of Plaza de Independencia is a statue of the beloved Artigas on a horse. This plaza is the heart of the city. Below the ground, down a few stairs, his body rests in well-guarded box. Two stoic, statuesque soldiers always stand by in full regalia guarding his remains. They don't move, ever. Even if you dance in front of the them waving your hands, they still won't recognize your presence. In the rest of the mausoleum, the lighting and block letters on the walls provide a very distinctive ambiance, that I find to be quite appealing.


Recently there has been some chatter about moving Artigas' eternal resting place because the mausoleo was built during the dictatorship in Uruguay. Some declare this is a political move, other say it is necessary to commemorate Artigas appropriately. No matter what the issue, when Artigas is involved, there is sure to be a firey discussion.

Club Bohemios

Thanks to the wind and rain keeping me for running along la rambla (the path along the beach pictured below), I joined a gym today! I've been meaning to for the longest time, but I couldn't find one just right for me, until I stumbled upon Club Bohemios. A few of the gyms I visited were rather gross, too far away, missing a pool, no good classes, or too expensive. Club Bohemios is close to my house and they offer tons of activities.


I went to volleyball tonight, and it wasn't any casual-toss-the-ball-around volleyball. It was tomorrow-I'm-gonna-be-sore volleyball. My favorite kind.

I also took advantage of the indoor pool. Finally, a pool! I haven't been able to swim laps in over 6 months.

The best part is that they were running a promotion where if you buy 3 months at once, you don't have to pay matriculation. Oh yeah, sign me up baby. The price in total with the medical examination and ID card was 2,650 pesos or about 120 dollars. That's only $40 a month. I think that's less than what you'd pay for the same type of gym in the US, although I'm no expert on such matters. Regardless, I'm really happy to have a place to go exercise rain or shine and hopefully the variety of activities will keep me motivated to actually go everyday.

Futbol

While Emily was visiting me in Montevideo, we went to a futbol (soccer) game at the estadio central (which also happens to be where Uruguay won the first World Cup in 1930 for all you sports fans out there).


The game was fun, although I felt a little out of place for three major reasons.

1. We were two women in a sea of testosterone.
2. We didn't know the cheers of the "barra brava" (aka. crazy futbol fans, mostly 19 year old boys with firecrackers and drums)
3. I dressed inappropriately. I knew our team's colors were blue and black because I made a specific point to ask someone which colors to wear. But, it was rather cold that night so I wore my red coat over my blue and black shirt only to find the other team showed up in red. Great.


And on topic of discomfort, my stomach was less than pleased with me that evening as well. I have never eaten a more greasy hamburger in my entire life. My stomach gurgles just thinking about it. The bread's only function was to sop up the grease from the burger. And the woman I bought it from touched my money and then touched my hamburger. Yummy.

But even more yummy was the torta frita (fried dough) we had afterwards. There's just something about sports stadiums and fried foods together--they're universal.

Mercado del Puerto

If you have ever asked, Where's the beef? you will be happy to know I have found the answer. The beef is at the Mercado del Puerto in downtown Montevideo.


Imagine steamy grill after steamy grill lined with meaty delectables. Chorizo, Asado, Sausage links, Rump Roasts, Ribs, Chicken, and cuts of meat I don't even want to think about.


The people at Mercado del Puerto were super friendly. The men at our parillada insisted we come around the table to take a photo with the grill behind us. They handed us pitchforks of meat and we just kind of stood there smiling awkwardly and profusely.


Later, after our delicious meat dinner, we wandered around the market chatting with a few locals and enjoying the sounds of classical Uruguayan songs by meandering guitarists.

Trip to Uruguay's Capital

I just got back from a trip to Montevideo to apply for a visa to Brazil.


Next month we have a regional seminar in Sao Paulo, but we have to have visas to enter the country. The fee for American citizens seems to be much higher than residents of other countries. Booo. What's up with that? Wouldn't countries want to encourage tourism from the US, and thus not charge more than $160 plus the hassle of getting the visa? I suppose the visa either does not discourage much US travel to Brazil, or they make enough off the visas to make up for the lost revenue otherwise.


Nevertheless, I enjoyed being in Montevideo. It made me excited for when I will move to there in almost a month now. It will quite a change to move from a city with a population of 100,000 to one with a population of 1.3 million. I imagine leaving Salto will be bittersweet experience. I have to make the most of every day that I have left in this little place.